If you missed Part 1 please view it here: http://jbmotoresto.blogspot.com/2011/06/j.html
Now that I have discovered a major problem, removal of the engine to look over everything else is necessary (at least in my mind.) Though I may have been able to remove the head with the engine in the bike, it is much, much easier to do so with it off the bike and on a workbench.
So begins my long and arduous task of removing the motor:
I had not previously done an engine removal on a bike of this scale, so I used the manual as my guide for the most part. Note to anyone who has never removed an engine before and wants to: USE THE MANUAL!!! I cannot stress that enough. The last thing anyone wants to do is break something that could have easily been avoided had one paid close attention and followed directions carefully. If you are removing the engine, something expensive is most likely already broken, so don't try to make it worse than it already is. You may end up with a screwdriver through the wall, and now there is a hole in the drywall.
If you don't have a manual to help removing the engine, you can do a google search to try and find a PDF some nice individual has uploaded or purchase a E-version or paper copy off a site. A good place for PDF versions that I have found is http://classiccycles.org/
Moral of the story is work slowly and carefully, unplugging all the connections and disconnecting things along the way. The motor should end up coming out easily and in one piece with little to no dangling parts like hoses and wires.
Always remember to disconnect the batter before you begin removing the engine. This is to avoid shorting anything so as to not damage it or yourself.
Since I have only removed this engine for this specific bike, the process will most likely be a little different for other bikes, so stick to the manual and you will come out alive.
I will admit right now, I am extremely bad at following directions, especially my own, so I did not necessarily follow the manual during my removal process, but then again, a little common sense goes a long way.
I started this process by removing the exhaust. If you seem to have a hard time removing some pieces due to rust, a spray lubricant such as WD-40 works wonders. The exhaust tubes may require a bit of wiggling to get them off, but they will move. When removing the collector underneath, don't forget to loosen the collars connecting it to the rear pipes. A cro-bar does the job if it doesn't want to leave its home.
The radiator needs to be removed, but make sure to drain it first. Anti-freeze is very good at what it does and it won't evaporate from the garage floor. When you spill some, make sure to clean it up right away as it is poisonous to pets who like to drink it for its sweet taste.
You have to remove the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder in order to get to the sprocket. The manual says to remove the sprocket from the motor, but that is really unnecessary since the chain will most likely have a master link. The manual also says to remove the alternator and the clutch to remove the engine, but to me that is asinine, so I left them. I hope the Honda Gods don't smite me for it.
A motorcycle jack is a great investment. You can get one at just about any auto supply store, harbor freight, or my best friend (sorry Brody) Craigslist. The jack is a really good tool to keep any project upright and stationary, and makes engine removal a breeze.
Continue unhooking things like coolant lines and shift levers, and take the carburetors out. As I said before, new boots make things easy as pie. Just loosen the boots from both the carbs and the intakes, and give the assembly some upward force and *POP* out they come.
Again, the manual told me to remove the starter motor, which is only two or three bolts, but i chose instead to remove the power wire that runs to it from the battery instead. That's only one bolt!
The cool thing about this bike is that one of the side rail down tubes detach to reveal an exit strategy for easy engine removal. Good thinking Honda! Just pop this bad boy off via the four obvious allen bolts once the two lower engine mounting bolts are removed (for those that have read this through before actually attempting to remove the engine, Kudos to you! The others are probably wondering why the subframe isn't coming off right now.)
Make sure to have a helper with you, as it will make this next step 1000000 times easier. Once you remove that last upper mount bolt, the engine will want to fall out of the frame and even though it is probably only 60 pounds, the bike also will not have a kick stand nor will it want to stay on the jack. A second set of hands definitely helps in this instance. After the engine is out, lightly bolt the subframe back on so you can use the kickstand again.
Now that the engine is out, you may now take it to your clean-room, I mean crappy makeshift table, for dismantling and inspection.
And that is the end of my how-to instructable, now back to my story.
Once I took the engine out, I immediately removed the head to check the pistons and valve seats. The top of the head was pretty damaged, so I knew I was needing at least that, but I wanted to check the pistons because if they were damaged, i was considering scraping this project and going to another one as it would no longer be worth my investment of time and money.
Luckily, the pistons were in good shape. No signs of detonation, and the cylinders had a good crosshatch on them. There was just a little carbon build-up, but nothing too bad.
The valves were not the prettiest, but they held fluids in my leak test, so at least none were bent. I cleaned a bit of the head, but i then remembered I was getting another one, so there was no point. Though I do have backup valves in case something happens to my new ones.
I ordered my head from 78tamama on eBay, and that husband-wife team has one of the nicest stores on eBay. They are kind and considerate to me and worked with me to help me get this project on the road. I am so fortunate there are nice people in this world who are like them. I would recommend them to anyone looking for motorcycle parts.
I can't wait for the parts to get in sometime next week. Until then, since the bike is this far apart, I might as well do a frame-down restoration. More updates tomorrow!
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